If you have not yet discovered Bacari on Main Street, it’s time to find your spot. Their newest location in Culver City is already buzzing. An elegant space with Tiffany-style fixtures, and the historic original redwood beam ceiling offers some hidden Culver City history. What was once a simple hardware store is now scented with amazing aromas. Bring an appetite.
Bacari serves small plates; the way to maximize the menu is by ordering things that pair well. Order a cold dish and a hot dish together, or something rich with something light. There is – really – something for everyone.
The current dinner menu features a favorite with a unique twist; gnocchi made with ricotta and roasted beets, served with a chevre fondue, topped with chimichurri. As gnocchi is often made with potatoes and/or ricotta, using roasted beets for this dish raises the flavor profile to a place that is both tangy and sweet. The ricotta and the chevre bring in a deluxe creaminess. Topping it all with chimichurri, a very green sauce of oregano, garlic, parsley, red pepper, vinegar and olive oil, adds an unexpected dimension to the bite. Because gnocchi is a pasta that requires real care – it can getting gluey if not done well – it’s one of the gold standards for a kitchen that knows what it’s doing.
Bacari is a kitchen that really knows what it’s doing.
The glazed pork belly is candy for carnivores, a bite so rich that the lemon and cilantro just keep it from being overwhelming, a topping of sesame seeds is a pleasant punctuation.
The lamb hummus is another inspired dish that comes with both crisp, raw vegetables and pillowy pita bread to scoop up a bite. The lamb, stewed with paprika, cardamom, cumin, black pepper and ginger, sits atop the creamy hummus giving a deep rich note to the light flavor of the dip.
Coming onto the menu are some great new dishes; watermelon salad with arugula – another delicious balance of sweet and peppery; sea scallops in a gentle citrus sauce, served perfectly crisp on the outside, mild and soft inside. If you are a seafood lover, order the shrimp ceviche. It is as bright and crisp as possible, super-fresh shrimp with a sauce that requires perfect timing. The lime juice that ‘cooks’ the dish is accompanied by onions and peppers that bring big flavor.
Drinks? There is a full bar, with a list of creative cocktails, both classics and original. While the wine list isn’t extensive, it’s excellent, proving that at few good bottles are all you really need. If you are a beer drinker, there is are ample choices with several on draft. There are also non-alcoholic choices in every category, which underlines the best reason to eat at Bacari.
It’s a menu with something for everyone; you could order an entirely vegan and/or gluten free meal of multiple dishes. You can try flavors that are new to you, or rely on old favorites. If you are out with someone who just wants a burger or a pizza – they have a burger, they have a whole selection of pizzas. All of them, exceptionally good.
It was also delightful to try a new dessert; Pistachio Dream. Two very crunchy triangles of pastry topped with a mellow pistachio-laced cream. Sweet but not sugary, it was an ideal bite to finish the feast.
What allows a great kitchen to shine is great staff. Everyone, from Lina at the hostess station to server CeCe was perfectly poised, handling dozens of diners without missing a beat.
The only challenge; the room is loud. Getting a table in the back room or on the front patio is a better place for conversation. But you might find your mouth having so much fun eating, talking can wait.
Judith Martin-Straw
Photo – Shrimp ceviche with tortilla crisps
Bacari – 3833 Main Street, Culver City, 90230
reservations available online